back to the living!

I have literally been sick in bed for the past seven days. I caught a bacterial infection from poorly prepared food, not from AmaGhar, but from eating out in Kathmandu. I'll spare you the details of disgusting symptoms, but needless to say, it's been an awful week. Mid-week, after a continuous high fever, Bonnie took me to the doctor. We thought that from my loss of fluids I would need an IV, but I was glad to find out I was only partially dehydrated, so the IV wasn't needed. I was given rehydration salts (nasty taste!!!) to drink, and antibiotics.

I was just so relieved to find out it wasn't my appendix or something major. I have never felt such incredible pain in my stomach like that before. The entire house has been so sweet in taking such good care of me. Adelaide has been waiting on me night and day, always making sure I'm ok. There's even a drawing on my door from all the kids, saying they miss having fun with me, and hope I get better soon. The poor house mothers have been so upset, trying all their traditional medicines. The past few days I've been trying to go outside, do some laundry, or be active in some way. But, each time a house mother would walk me back inside, and insist I need more rest. After feeling like death for a week, I woke up this morning like a new person! The kids said it was like I was on a video game that suddenly added power to my body :) It felt so wonderful today to hang out with the kids, get back to my reading groups, and eat dinner with my hands again - I'm back!!! One of the girls just came in my room to say good night, and said she is so happy to see me smiling again. I love my AmaGhar family!!!!

Don't make me pull over!!!!

This morning on the micro, as I was making mental notes of amusing stories, I was transported back to thoughts of my childhood. There was an argument on the micro between the conductor and a passenger with a child on his lap. I couldn't understand what was going on (bit of a language barrier!), but I assumed the two were arguing about not paying for a child who doesn't use an actual seat. Suddenly, I felt as if I were on a family trip from my childhood. I smiled as I compared my arguing siblings, to the two men arguing with each other. At first I ignored the incident, but as the voices raised, so did the eyes of everyone on the micro. Then, the driver, chimed in. I could not understand how the driver heard anything, as the argument was on the back of the bus. It was as if my own parents had been transported to the front, having those "invisible eyes and ears" that always knew what was going on. I remembered how my parents would take turns saying, "Stop arguing! Don't make me stop this car and pull over!" And at that exact moment, the driver of the micro pulled over! I was waiting for the conductor to push the man out the door, but instead the rest of the bus chimed in to the argument. The passengers went from silent onlookers, to a competition as to whom could shout louder! I couldn't do anything but laugh at this moment. One man offered his own money for the arguing pair, but his hand was shoved aside. The driver shouted something that seemed very impressive, because after that point, the bus started moving again and nobody spoke a word. I was dying to ask someone what the argument was actually about, but I was afraid of making noise in the instantly silent bus :)

Fun facts continued!

9) There is no need for seatbelts on the micro because everyone is smashed into the bus like sardines.
10) When washing clothes, the best replacement for the spin cycle is stomping on your clothes in the soapy water.
11) Do not be startled by loud booming sounds, as they could be explosions of any kind - a tire blowng out, or a bomb!
12) Do not leave home without your surgical mask - it helps lessen the sting of the aromas of sewage and piles of garbage.
13) When in doubt, smile and laugh!
14) Toilet references are not #1 or #2, but instead short toilet and long toilet. No matter the age, a child and/or teenager will openly explain which will be happening, when asking to be excused from the room.
15) Cows, goats, dogs, chickens, and ducks have the right of way, not pedestrians.
16) Umbrellas are useless in a monsoon downpour.
17) Horns do not really mean get out of the way, but rather, ready or not here I come!
18) We are fortunate at AmaGhar to have a "neighborhood choir." Every night, promptly at 9, the frogs begin croaking, then the birds, ducks, chickens, and crickets chime in. The dogs start barking one by one, but then erupt into what sounds like hundreds. Our neighbor is friendly enough to chime in with about a half hour of hocking mucous outside the window. Not to be forgotten are the cows and goats, trying their best to be heard above the rest of the choir. Just in case we missed the nights' festivities and sweet melodies, the choir always provides an encore every morning, promptly at 5am. On special occassions, our neighbor not only hocks, but vomits as well.

P.S.

I just added new pictures from today. There are some of my kindergarten class, and then, two shots that Adelaide got of me on the micro! It's at the point when I was able to hang on the inside, so the pictures aren't at the point of insanity :)

getting braver, or just plain stupid?!

We are once again experiencing an extreme petrol shortage. Vehicles are parked in double lines, for what seems like miles. People wait 12-24 hours just to get the small amount of gas they are allowed. People are definitely sleeping overnight in these lines, or simply not driving at all. Needless to say, transportation has been getting difficult. On our way home today, Adelaide and I realized we could be waiting a long time for our last micro back to AmaGhar. As a micro was pulling away, we heard the conductor shout for our stop. We started running alongside and realized there were NO seats. We jumped on the edge, holding on to the rail, hanging OUTSIDE OF THE MICRO. We both looked at each other with fear in our eyes, saying, "should we do this?!" Before we had a chance to think, the micro started driving, and we were hanging on the outside! Other people jumped on behind us, so we actually had a row of people hanging behind us- absolute insanity!!! We were laughing out of fear and amusement. Once a few people jumped off, not wanting to ride outside the bus, and it was just us on the railing with the conductor, we had a blast! The wind blowing in our faces, hanging on for our lives as the bus swerved around cows and potholes, hoping our sweaty palms would hold tight.....so many feelings at once. As if there weren't enough going on, then it started to rain! I was shouting out bus stops with the conductor and he was laughing, and eventually the whole bus. The passengers were looking at me and Adelaide as if we had lost our minds, but when they saw our continuous laughter, the giggles became contagious. Once seats were actually available, I didn't want to sit down - I was having too much fun!!!! We are now contemplating if hanging on for dear life, like monkeys, on a moving bus, is more thrilling than bathing with elephants.

getting braver!

Last night and today were some firsts that used to scare and gross me out. But, when actually confronted with the experiences, I calmly responded and went with the flow....

Not wanting to give me a heart attack, in the middle of the night Adelaide whispered firmly, "McKenzie, wake up, come over here." As I was barely conscience from my sleeping pill, Adelaide continued to coax me over to her bed. I crawled on her bed next her and she whispered, "there was a rat crawling on your head!!!!" I faintly remember screaming silently (so as not to wake the entire house), and then curled up in the fetal position. Meanwhile, Adelaide and Anna Marie, no longer screaming quietly, were trying to find the rat who had crawled into our room. I lay there motionless as the other two jumped from bed to bed, flashing lights and moving everything off the floor to get the creature out! Not finding the rat, they decided we couldn't sleep in our room. So, the three of us grabbed our bedding and ran to another other room. This morning the kids were in awe as to why all of us weren't sleeping in our proper beds :) We are sleeping safely tonight with rat traps under each of our beds!!! Thank goodness I wasn't fully aware as to what was going on last night! The gross part is that I can still feel claw marks on my head -ewwwww!

Today after walking thru the grass during the rain, I finally got my first leech. Another ewwwww!!!! But, instead of screaming, I nonchalantly said to Adelaide, "oh look, I have a leech." I watched it wriggle on my foot and then grabbed a tissue to get it off. Adelaide said she was shocked by how calm I was. I agreed and laughed, realizing that the "icky" things arene't bothering me anymore!

Another first today was riding in a tuk-tuk. I previously referred to these vehicles as death traps that I would never get in, but now I would describe them as three wheeled go-carts. Granted, they are the slowest moving part of the transportation insanity (people included!), but maybe that's what prevented me from freaking out. We were never going fast enough to make the ride feel like the usual roller coaster feeling. No butterflies in my stomach today! Going over potholes and swerving thru traffic was pretty painful, as there is no cushioning, just metal. I'm proud to say I finally took the opportunity to ride in a tuk-tuk, but it's not something I'm looking forward to doing again. The bruises I'll have tomorrow will be a reminder!

A whole new world!

As I'm writing this blog I'm feeling pieces of rice still coming from under my nails......I ate with my hands for the first time!!!!! What an exhilirating experience! At first I couldn't even touch my food, just the feeling that it was not allowed (American mentality), and I wasn't being my proper self. Adelaide giggled with me until I could get to the point of just touching my food :) The first try was hysterical - food all over my face and falling back on my plate. But, then I was taught the skill of using your thumb as a "spoon" and to use your hand as a scoop. Once I got that down, Bonnie taught me a few "table" manners (we don't sit at a table, but on straw stools). And yes, there are manners and proper ways to use your hands to eat! You cannot get food past your second knuckle. Slurping is ok. It is not polite to fling food on others, even if it is accidental! The cooks were laughing and applauding my skills, and had a great time just watching me :) When I was about finished I was comfortable with the whole eating-with-your-hands, so I didn't refuse more food like I usually do. I wasn't even that hungry, I just wanted to keep "playing"!!! I mixed my dahl (lentils) and baht (rice) to the perfect consistency and went in for seconds! I slurped extra loud for the giggles and smiles I got from the cooks. And, then, as if I couldn't create any more amusement, I complemented the cooks in true Nepalese fashion -with a loud burp! I felt so childlike, such fun! I'm so excited to eat dinner tomorrow!!!

a sad realization

I was chatting with Bonnie today about how much I want a goat, and how cute it is to see everyone around Nepal taking their goats for walks. I thought how funny it would be for me to get a goat in the states, and attempt taking my goat for a walk thru DC! Then Bonnie patted my leg and said, "oh my dear, they aren't taking their goats for walks, they aren't pets......" I looked at her for a moment and realized that the goats weren't being taken for leisurely walks, but for a trip to the butcher :(

Fun Nepal facts you won't find in the Lonely Planet Guidebook

I have taken it upon myself to share the daily fun facts I experience, just so you all are prepared if you ever take an amazing trip to Nepal!
1) Crossing the street is like playing the old videogame, Frog. You simply move strategically, side to side, front to back. Once you get to the middle of the road, stop on the "median" and hope not to be hit by oncoming traffic. Then, repeat the process to make your full cross to the other side of the street. If anyone watches Seinfeld, think of the episode when George was moving his Frog videogame across a New York street - but multiply the scariness by 50!

2) Practice pronunciation of Nepalese words BEFORE speaking in public. A wrong sound can mean an entirely wrong word. As I was tutoring the children I was trying to say the name of a river, but instead said, "I like to milk goats"!!!! We were all laughing so hard we were crying!

3) Never let an appendage hang outside the window of a moving vehicle, unless you want to risk losing it!

4) The countless number of men and boys holding hands does not infer openness of homosexuality, it's just a sweet way of showing affection towards friends.

5) If you see a cow on the street, touch the cow and then your forehead, and you will be blessed for the day.

6) Upon hearing the hocking of mucus, move quickly because it will catch air.

7) If you get hit by a car, make sure it has blue plates, because those are the only cars with insurance.

8) The subtle head bobble means yes, not no or maybe.

More to come, my internet is out of service in a few minutes. Check out the new pictures!!!

disappearing trash...

I have experienced the reality of the saying, "one man's garbage is another man's treasure," or however that goes. I put my empty cardboard boxes in a trash bin, with the rest of the garbage. Yesterday I saw my cereal box turned into a dollhouse!!! My cracker box was turned into a purse! I realized that the children go through the house trash for things that can be reused! Today one of the girls had my empty travel-size lotion bottle, to play with her dolls. Too sweet! So now, I put my cardboard boxes, and other reusable items, on a shelf near the trash basket, so the children don't have to go thru trash to find new toys :)

Home from the jungle!

A safari has always been on my wish-list of things to do, and I can now cross that off!!! The past few days were some of the most incredible moments of my life. As you can see by the countless elephant pictures, that was my favorite aspect :) Also a favorite was the cultural program we saw, but the pictures don't do any justice. We saw a performance of traditional dances of the Tharu tribe (from the Chitwan area). The boys were amazing! They used long sticks which were swung around like batons, hit each others' sticks from front and behind, all to this incredible music that came from two instruments - mini tambourines and a drum. I kept thinking of all the head injuries I would cause by attempting the dances. But, my chance came at the end when the audience was asked to dance onstage. Both Adelaide and I danced and had an absolute blast (without the sticks!!!)! I can't describe the feeling of dancing around with these incredibly talented boys, trying to immitate their every move, and actually succeeding!

So back to the elephants....we went on an elephant ride thru the jungle (and the river) and saw all kinds of wildlife - rhinos, deer, peacocks, crocodiles, and of course lots of spiders and bugs! When we passed another group, I couldn't stop laughing when a guy asked if I had any grey poupon!

As much fun as the elephant ride was, it paled in comparison to our experience earlier that day....bathing with the elephants! Most of my pictures are from that time, and I'm so glad our guide was our photographer. It was really scary at first, to be riding bareback on an elephant, and then to have the elephant wade into the river. The elephant trainer (called a mahout) stood on the back end and started shouting commands. All of a sudden the elephant filled his trunk with water and aimed over his head, right in our faces!!!! After a few sprays we were loving it and felt more comfortable. But then the elephant rolled over in the water and we fell off laughing. Other people were on elephants as well, so we all took turns laughing at each other trying to stay on. I must say that despite being on the largest of the elephants, Adelaide and I did the best job of staying on! When the elephant was laying in the water we would help with scrubbing and massaging. It was amazing to look in their eyes, such thick eyelashes!!! Back on we would go, and get sprayed over and over again - so much fun!!! After looking at pictures, we realized that at one point, we were riding the elephant without the mahout, bareback by ourselves!!! Either he was amazed by our talent, or simply trusted the elephant :) Elephant bathing was by far the most terrifying and exhilarating experience of my trip so far!